“Let’s get so fresh and so clean!”

“How can I control my life when I can’t control my hair?”- Author unknown

Q-How often should I shampoo my hair? A- When your scalp feels dirty.  Also when sweat mixes with the natural shedding of the scalp and dirty sebum (oil) it’s time for water!

The scalp is an important factor for retaining moisture. A healthy dermis (scalp you see and feel) will allow the oil glands to provide a natural lubrication that seals in moisture.  Many factors affect this process and right now we will focus on the shampoo you use.  Something as simple as a high ph-shampoo will dehydrate the scalp.  A healthy scalp’s ph level is between 4.5- 5.5.  For a normal hair cleansing you do not want to use a ph-balanced shampoo because they have a ph of 7 which is too high for the average scalp (4.5-5.5) unless it is being used after a chemical process. The increase of ph dehydrates the scalp and can cause it to become dry, itchy and even flaky.

******The information found below was found in numerous books, websites, and educational classes that I have taken. I strongly encourage you to look up information for yourself! *******

What shampoo to use?

Recent studies have found that sulfates are very drying and can damage hair follicles which could lead to hair loss. All because we really enjoy our amazing lather while washing our hair. It can also strip the hair and scalp of essential oils causing that drying effect. Worse if you are spending lots of money to color your hair, it causes the color to fade quicker so you have to get your hair colored more often. Sodium lauryl sulfate is not a recognized carcinogen. However, the chemical is frequently combined with TEA (triethanolamine), DEA (diethanolamine), or MEA (monnoethanolamine), which can cause the formation of the carcinogenic substances nitrosames. To be on the safe side, add antioxidant vitamins A and C to any product that contains TEA, DEA, or MEA. The addition of antioxidants will help protect against nitrosamine contamination. For each 8 ounces of shampoo, add 1 teaspoon of vitamin C powder, and 1/4 teaspoon of vitamin A powder.

•  Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laurilsulfate or sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS or NaDS0).

Don’t use conditioning shampoos because they deposit a slick film (fillers from the product) leaving residue build up on the hair.  Here’s the analogy I read-Do you take a shower and put lotion on at the same time? No! The same rules that go for your body also apply to your hair.

Some ingredients to look for in your shampoo:

• For fine hair look for tea tree oil, sage, and chamomile.
• For other types of hair- Nettle, yarrow, chamomile, honey, wheat protein, gylcerine, glucosides (decyl glucodisde or coco-glucoside).

I found this information on a website I can’t remember what it is but when I find it I will let you guys know:

• Carcinogenic nitrosamines can form in the manufacturing of sodium lauryl sulfate or by its inter-reaction with other nitrogen-bearing ingredients within a formulation utilizing this ingredient.
• Other studies have indicated that sodium lauryl sulfate enters and maintains residual levels in the heart, liver, lungs and brain from skin contact. This poses the question whether it could be a serious potential health threat from its use in shampoos, cleansers, and toothpastes.
• Still other research has indicated sodium lauryl sulfate may be damaging to the immune system, especially within the skin. Skin layers may separate and inflame due to its protein denaturing properties.
• Although sodium lauryl sulfate is not carcinogenic in experimental studies, it has been shown that it causes severe epidermal changes in the area it is applied, indicating a need for tumor-enhancing assays.
• Additional studies have found that sodium lauryl sulfate is heavily deposited on the skin surface and in the hair follicles. Damage to the hair follicle could result from such deposition.

***Little extra hair note:

Help I’m going bald!!

The average scalp holds 100,000-150,000 hairs.  With this being said your hair goes through different “life” stages.  Anagen is your growing stage that lasts 2-6 years, Catagen is a transitional stage that lasts a couple of weeks, and Telogen is the resting stage which lasts 3-4 months. Telogen makes up about 10-15% of the hair on your head on a daily basis. With that being said normally a person will lose at least 1% of those strands (about 150 strands) a day. When you see your hair shedding, if it seems like more than this amount, that is when you need to consult your stylist because this is outside of the natural hair loss cycle.

Products/Shampoos

Here are some of the products that me and my friends have tried and found that we like:

• Mizani – true textures line
• Miss Jessies- Crème de la curl cleansing shampoo
• Aubrey Organics Shampoo

I haven’t had the chance to try these lines but they are next on my list:

• Hair Rules
• DevaCurl

**Keep in mind most sulfate free shampoo’s will not suds up. So don’t keep adding more and more shampoo, apply your normal amount and rinse. Although some sulfate free shampoo’s still have a cleansing agent in them that will still allow them to suds up. Also just because something says it’s the next best thing don’t believe the hype. I’ve found that like the “hole-in-the-wall restaurants” that are amazing, products that don’t have to boast and do extra marketing to claim that they are the best are made by smaller companies that truly have your heads in mind when making their products and are of a better quality. Products that contain all natural ingredients will cost a little more but always remember you get what you pay for!****

Next blog will be about conditioner.....

Let's Talk Tools!

“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”

“It’s not always about how often you do something; it’s about what happens when you do it.”- Let’s talk about the tools you are using on your hair.

Combs- Make sure you are never using combs that are broken. The jagged edges tear along the cuticle layer and cause breaks and tears that lead to other damaging effects of the strand.

·         Wide tooth- Should always be used on wet hair. When evenly distributing product (conditioner, setting lotion, etc.) you should use a wide tooth comb to help detangle and alleviate the amount of stress put on the hair.

·         Rattail- Should be used to mold, section and style the hair

Brushes- The main goal of the brush is to distribute your natural hair oils and remove dirt and debris that has settled in your hair and on your scalp.

·         Flat paddle- This brush has little balls on the bristles that allow your scalp to receive a nice stimulating massage that increases blood flow to promote healthy growth. It also distributes the natural oils produced by your scalp evenly through your hair.

·         Bristle brush- This brush will tear the hair. But this brush is also recommended for women who have long, thick hair. (Personal preference will have to be applied here)

·         Denman brush- Stimulates the scalp the same way a flat paddle brush does. People with thick hair that want a straight sleek look would use this brush when blow-drying the hair. You can also create flips with this brush and the blow dryer.

Blow dryer- Ceramic, Ionic, etc what do they all mean?????

·         Ceramic – Used for even distribution of heat, the far infrared rays help to lock in color and moisture, smooth cuticles, and dry the hair faster from the inside out. It always distributes negative ions to help lay the cuticle down. It can be used on all hair types.

·         Ionic- These dryers produce additional negative ions that help reduce frizz caused by static electricity. In theory, a conventional dryer pushes out the positive ions that raise the cuticle causing frizzy, dry, dull looking hair. The wet hair is a positive ion, the ionic dryer produces negative ions and they come together to lay the cuticle down and seal in moisture producing a shiny more healthy look. They also use less heat causing less damage to the hair. Best for people with frizzy hair. Ceramic materials are usually ionic which means in some dryers you will get the benefits of an ionic dryer even if it doesn’t say so.  (This is another personal preference because many users found no difference between ceramic and ionic)

·         Tourmaline- Have the same benefits of ionic dryers. They are made with tourmaline, which is a precious stone, because it is the best ionic and infrared generator for dryers.

Thermal Protector:

They are usually sprays or liquids that you place on the hair shaft to protect during thermal styling services. Products with silicone act like a make-up foundation; they merely cover and give the appearance of a healthy strand. I personally like Design essentials H2O mixed with Sabino Moisture Block. You always want to have a thermal protector when using a blow dryer, curling iron and if you want to go a step further hooded dryer as well.

Flat Irons:

The same technology that is used in the dryers is applied to the flat irons. An ionic ceramic flat iron is said to be the best because it neutralizes the positive ions and adds the negative ions needed to produce a smooth silky strand. In my experience, I only use a Titanium iron on my Caucasian clients because the “plates” have burned my African American client’s hair. (Titanium has the same benefits of ionic tools.) I prefer ceramic on African American hair. When straightening natural hair, the most important part is to blow it dry until it shines on its own.  There is much talk about how high of a temperature you should use on your hair. I have found that with a really good blow dry I don’t have to use over 400 degrees unless they have extremely coarse hair in which I go up to 430 degrees.

***Hair Tip: You get what you pay for! Some products like flat irons and blow dryers might cost a little more but the durability, longevity, and health to your hair because of the parts it’s made of, will be better in the long run. You should never expect overnight results.

What Type of Hair Do I Have?

“Knowledge is power, never stop learning”

I’m really into natural hair because the benefits are priceless! Don’t get me wrong I have nothing against relaxers I just prefer natural hair at this stage in my life. Natural hair allows me more versatility and styling options. I also feel that the lack of harsh chemicals on my hair and scalp keep me and my hair healthier.  One thing that you must keep in mind is that everyone’s hair is different and finding a perfect product and hair regimen will require some trial and error but the goal is to point you in the right direction. I also strongly suggest starting to look at the ingredients in all of your products to learn what is going in your hair.

While researching about hair you might come across sites that say use this product for 1A or 4B type hair. I bet you’re like what does all that mean? Well below I have broken the categories down and added some additional information that should help with understanding your hair type. Your hair type categorizes the shape of your strands i.e. curly or straight. Texture determines the size of each strand i.e. thin, medium or coarse.

So what’s your hair type:

Closed cuticles produce a smooth surface for light to bounce off of which is the shiny healthy appearance the naked eye sees.

Type 1: There is zero curl or wave. This usually is a person with strong and shiny hair that generally won’t hold a curl. Your hair is more likely to be oily than dry. This hair type has more cuticle layers than any other which makes it harder to damage. There are however always people that push the limit and over process which leads to dry and brittle hair with paper thin ends. There are three sub categories to this type: 1A, 1B, and 1C

1 A-Hair tends to be fine, thin and super soft.  Shampoo daily. Use a gentle shampoo for oily hair to get it squeaky clean to produce more body for your hair.

1 B- Medium textured with a lot of body. Shampoo daily or every other day. Use a gentle moisturizing shampoo.

1 C- Coarse textured and most resistant to curling and shaping. Shampoo daily or every other day. Use a gentle moisturizing shampoo.

Type 2: There is a wavy “S” like curl pattern and the hair tends to be coarse. Even if you cut this type of hair it will stick close to the head without bouncing up.

2A- Hair tends to be fine and thin but straight and curly style are easy to perform. A “normal” shampoo or any shampoo like moisturizing or sulfate free shampoo can be used daily or every other day based on preference.

2B- Medium textured and tends to hug the head like a finger wave.

2C- Coarse textured and looser wave. Both of these are a little more resistant to styling and tend to frizz. A “normal” shampoo like moisturizing or sulfate free shampoo can be used daily or every other day based on preference with these 2 types.

Type 3: Is hair that has a definite loopy “S” pattern. If you pluck it out and stretch it, it will look the same way a spring does.  It’s usually baby soft and has a fine texture. The cuticle layer doesn’t lay flat which is why it isn’t as shiny as straight or wavy hair is. The curls for this type have strong elasticity (strength) and can be pulled without snapping. Damaged type 3 hair is frizzy, dull, hard and dry to the touch and fuzzy ill defined curls.

3A- Shiny loose curls. Hair should be kept as moist as possible. Shampoo every three days or so with a moisturizing or sulfate-free shampoo. Daily shampooing tends to leave the hair frizzy. If you are wearing your curls then you can rinse daily (hydrate with water) and shampoo every so often.

   

3B- Long corkscrew curls (medium amount of curl). Shampoo every three days or so with a moisturizing or sulfate-free shampoo. Daily shampooing tends to leave the hair frizzy. If you are wearing your curls then you can rinse daily (hydrate with water) and shampoo every so often.

 

Type 4: Kinky Hair. This type of hair is very tightly curled. It’s generally very wiry, very tightly coiled and fragile.  It appears to be coarse but its fine with lots and lots of densely pack strands. This hair doesn’t usually have a high shine (reflection of light from cuticle) but has a high sheen (luster) to it. It has a soft and silky feel in a healthy state. This hair is the most fragile because it has fewer cuticle layers than any other hair type. This means that it has less natural protection.

4A- Tightly coiled hair that when stretched has an “S” pattern. Usually holds more moisture than 4B. Recommended shampooing is once a week to keep the moisture in the hair. You want to use a protein based shampoo with natural ingredients. Look for ingredients like Shea butter, glycerin, nettle, yarrow, chamomile, honey, wheat protein and glucosides.

 

4B- Usually a less defined and wiry curl pattern. Recommended shampooing is once a week to keep the moisture in the hair. You want to use a protein based shampoo with natural ingredients. Look for ingredients like Shea butter, glycerin,nettle, yarrow, chamomile, honey, wheat protein and glucosides.

Once a month to every 6 weeks a good clarifying shampoo should be done to remove build up. It will remove product build up as well as its natural oils. This is why it is not recommended for daily use. Some people will not be able to clarify because their hair will not be able to handle the removal. After a clarifying treatment you must I repeat must perform a deep conditioning treatment to pack in the oils and nutrients that were stripped away.

Hair tip- Biotin is known as vitamin H and is in the vitamin B family. Dry skin is a possible sign of biotin deficiency as well as thinning and balding hair, brittle nails and fatigue. You can find biotin in your daily food intake in substances like brewer's yeast, whole grains, egg yolks, liver, rice and milk. A "suggested" daily dose is 150 to 300 mcg. Consult your doctor before starting a new vitamin regimen. Shampoo enriched with biotin and silica are said to aid in hair loss prevention.

Back to the Basics: Learning About Healthy Hair

Greetings!

My name is Leia’ Love and I have been a licensed cosmetologist since 2004. At the beginning of my journey I did what most stylist do, “Fake it till I make it.” We are required to go to continuing education classes every other year and obtain 8 hours of education. Like most stylists I went and obtained my 8 hours but didn’t really learn anything. I realized I didn’t want to be that type of stylist anymore and decided to take a more proactive role in my profession. I started going to more classes, researching trichology (the study of hair), and networking with other stylist that focus on the trade and not the tricks of the trade.  I have committed myself to a minimum of 30 hours of continuing education so I can be the best stylist and service provider to meet my client’s needs.

I strongly believe in educating my clients so they can assist me in maintaining their healthy head of hair once they are out of my chair. The basis of this blog will be to educate, dispel myths and allow women to take pride in their healthy hair!

Back to the basics:

The hair strand is made up of the cuticle, cortex, and medulla. 

The cuticle is the outer covering of the hair shaft. The cuticle is composed of layers of fibers that protect the cortex and medulla. The cuticle accounts for 20% of the overall strength of the hair. A healthy cuticle will lay flat and point in the direction of the end of the strand. An unhealthy cuticle leaves fly-a ways, dry and dull looking hair due to the raise cuticle.

The cortex is the second inside layer of the hair shaft which gives the hair its pigment (color) and elasticity (strength). This layer accounts for 80% of the overall strength of the strand.

The medulla is the core layer of the hair shaft and is often absent in fine or very fine hair.

Split ends:

Why do split ends occur? The cuticle layer is the most important factor with this problem. The cuticle has many layers that protect the cortex. Heat, chemicals, UV rays, excessive combing or brushing can all cause the cuticle layers to rise up and wither away. Once these layers have been withered away the cortex is exposed. Once the cuticle layer is gone there is no repairing it and the cortex cannot withstand the elements that it is not exposed to which is why it snaps, unravels and breaks.  This type of damage can occur throughout the strand, not only at the ends.

Another reason for split ends is due to the fact that moisture is lacking. When your hair is dry it reaches to the scalp for moisture. So picture a plant you water it and as it becomes dry it reaches to the bulbs for nourishment until there is nothing left and the leaves start to dry out and break off. This is what happens to your hair which is why it is important to keep the whole strand as well as your scalp nourished. Because your ends will do the exact same thing as the leaves, break off and fall out.

Hair health tips:

·         Keep your ends trimmed. When your ends start to split and unravel they will continue to unravel up and cause more damage so stop them in their tracks.

·         Use products that keep moisture in your hair. Stays away from “grease” because it tends to clog your pores; essential oils like almond, jojoba, tea tree, or olive oil are better substitutes.

·         Rinse out your conditioners with a cooler tepid water temperature to close your cuticle layer after you’ve used warm water to shampoo and open the cuticle.

 **If you have any topics you would like discussed please feel free to ask and I will do my best to provide you with the best knowledge about that topic!****