Nail Q&A

Nails are growths of protein, like your eyelashes- they are an extension of you that makes your hands look and feel pretty, but what they AREN’T are screw drivers, scrapers, bottle openers, or any other tool!

1. What causes white spots on my nails?

Blows to the cuticle area. The blow jars the nail cells as the nail is being formed and a mark is created. Nails grow at a rate of about an eighth of an inch per month and take about four to six months to grow a totally new nail. Nails are formed by keratin in your body. It comes together, dries as it comes out of the skin, and produces a hard nail. When you notice ridges, spots and other irregularities it means that something happened during the formation of the keratin. This can be caused by trauma, medicine, poor diet, or an illness. You need some fat in your diet or your nails will suffer and the end result will yield dull brittle nails.

2. What causes nails to become dehydrated?

Nails can absorb 20-25 percent of their own weight in water. When a nail absorbs water, the water causes the keratin fibers to swell and split apart weakening the nail producing splits on the edges. If you file your nails after soaking this has the potential to occur; file before you soak.  Nail dehydration can occur any time the nail contains more moisture than the surrounding air. The dry air pulls moisture from the nail causing it to contract this can sometimes lead to the white spots where the nail has pulled away. Be sure to thoroughly dry your hands after they have been immersed in liquid.

3. What are the signs of unhealthy nails?

If you have pale nail beds, pitted nail surfaces, dull and lifeless hands are signs of nutritional deficiencies, inadequate exercise, inadequate rest, smoking and other poor habits. In the case of discoloration poor blood circulation is usually the culprit.

4. What’s best for my cuticles?

 Just as your teeth need brushing and your face needs exfoliating your hands need to be pampered as well. To strengthen your cuticles get a nail brush and brush them in the morning and evening. Dry thoroughly and hydrate with oil. Vitamin E works best for hangnails, one capsule will last 3-4 days, it is also sold in liquid form where a couple of drops will spread over all 10 fingers. Cuticle treatments containing alpha hydroxyl acid (AHA) are chemical exfoliates for the skin and are excellent for overgrowth of the cuticle area.

5. What’s in Nail Hardeners?

Formaldehyde, typically found in hardeners, dehydrates nails while it hardens to the tough exterior. This causes more drying and brittle effects in some cases. Mathenol is another name for it. Toluene is another ingredient that’s not the best for nails, it makes the polish easy to apply but is found in gasoline, paint thinners, shoe polish and some other products. Strengthening your nails/cuticle area and keeping a clear top and base coat can help strengthen your nails along with a balanced diet.

*Lesson for ingredients- just look to see what your nail hardener and nail polish have in them.

6. How do I grow my nails/stop biting them?

The first step is to either put a oil like myrrh all over the nail or some other product from the store that aids in stopping nail biting. If you want to try something else I recommend getting prescription nails for about 2-3 weeks. Your nails should be long enough after this time to place a gel polish on them. The thought of ruining/wasting your money for your nails should help with the biting. As you begin to see how different your hands look with nails you will want to keep them that way. Keep them a short sporty length, as the longer they are, should one break, you will break/bite the other ones down to make them match.

Never Have Naked Hands!!!

Prescription Nails- What are they?

Prescription Nails are a non-damaging nail enhancement method that replaces acrylics and gels. They are called "Prescription" Nails because each set is carefully prescribed - the curvature and arch of each nail is precisely measured and recorded on a client's personal prescription card. The nails are custom fitted to the client's nail shape and size - producing nail enhancements that have a very natural look and feel.

• No fill-ins required
• No painful removal

• Non-damaging sanding & buffing
• No damaging electric drills used
• Each set lasts for up to 2-3 weeks
• Thin, durable, natural look and feel
• Great for nail biters and those concerned about protecting the natural nail bed
• Clear, full-cover nails, custom-designed for application on top of the natural nail bed
• Perfect for clients who want long, beautiful nails without the damage associated with traditional acrylic, gel, or wrap enhancement methods

   

                                          First the nail is sized to the nail

                                              

                                  Next the nail is placed on the natural nail with a bonding adhesive

                  

                                          The nails are then cut, buffed, and filed to desired length

               

    The nails are then polished and ready to be shown to the world!

       

Approx. time is 30-45 min. (can increase to 60 min. depending on the amount of artwork desired.)

What’s all this talk about Shellac?

Been wondering what Shellac & gel polish are?
*Hint they are the same thing:)

“Shellac goes on like polish and wears gel.”



Traditional gel nails are odorless and applied in the same manner as acrylic but cured (processed or dried) under a UV lamp.



Shellac or gel polish is a hybrid or combination of traditional nail polish and the properties/ingredients of the gel nails. The properties of the gel product give it a hard protective layer that is also flexible enough to bend with the natural nail so it doesn’t break like it normally would while adding longevity without chipping. The polish properties give it the numerous colors that you are custom to seeing. It is cured under a UV lamp and needs no drying time leaving no room for smudges!



It takes about 45 min. to complete the whole application.



Myth: It lasts forever



Truth: It lasts 2-3 weeks depending on the client. Everyone does different things in their day-to-day activities. Some are in water more often, some deal with paper which is drying to the hands and nails, or they are just very rough on their nails which all attribute to the amount of time the product will last on the client.



Myth: Removal is a very tedious process



Truth: Removal is about 10 min. once soaked in pure acetone. “If the product is applied by a professional it should be removed by a professional.”



Myth: It dries the nail



Truth: It has potential to become drying to the natural nail. Cuticle oil applied nightly will easily remedy this problem and should always be implied by the professional to every client.

Natural Hair Color / Natural Relaxer is it really Natural????

Here is the bottom line will/ does your hair revert back to its natural state or color once the product is applied.

I've heard a lot of people talking and asking about natural hair color.

Henna is a common vegetable tint used by people trying to naturally alter their hair color. It has a tendency to make the hair feel dry, coarse and often times leave a not so pleasant scent. It tends to do more harm than good. My recommendation-> DO NOT use it. It can be hard to find which is another hint that it may not be best for the hair if you can't find it readily. If you still decide to use it you should DEEP condition your hair after the color process and add a egg yolk or olive oil to the henna mixture to help soften it.

Vegetable hair colors coat the hair shaft and do not open the cuticle layer which means they do not interfere with the natural pigment of the hair. This means that it can only add color not take it away so to lighten your natural hair color would be considered a chemical process.

Color rinse, color shampoo, stick color, and vegetable colorants are forms of temporary color or natural non-damaging color.

Vegetable color is a powder of dried herbs, and roots mixed with water into a paste to color the hair.

Color rinse is made from strong tea of the dried herbs and water. It is poured onto hair and remains shampoo to shampoo. (Jazzing and other products like it)

Color Shampoo is a combination of herbal colorant and shampoo. It enhances faded and dull hair.

Stick color is wax that is colored and used to touch up new growth in between color treatments.

“Natural Colors” are derived from plant roots, leaves, flowers, berries, fruit and vegetable skins. Some herbs commonly used for color are sage, indigo, black walnut, hollyhock, alkanet, annatto, or henna.

 Natural Relaxer: My opinion is that if your hair does not revert to its natural texture it has been processed. Why would you want a natural relaxer? If your hair is hard to manage but you don’t want to go all the way to a relaxer you have the option to texturize your hair. What this means is putting a relaxer like chemical on your hair to loosen the curl pattern keeping texture (or a curl pattern) in the hair but making it more manageable for some that want that option.

Sometimes you really have to step back and ask yourself:

1.  What are the bottom line results of the product?
2. What are the ingredients?  
3. When shampooed again what will my hair look like?

In some instances you might as well go with a relaxer for all of that.

Relaxers aren’t bad, incorrect procedures produce bad results and that is with anything you do. Ask yourself if you want to be natural or relaxed? From there decide your next course of action. Do your own research and find an educated cosmetologist, stylist,  or hair technician to ask informed questions about your hair and what steps you should take to maintain a healthy head of hair.  Ask them how many continuing education classes they take, what seminars they go to, how long they’ve been in the industry different questions that will give you a sense of their experience, passion about what they do, and if they fit the needs of what you are looking for.

Your hair in a natural state is stronger than when it is in a relaxed state. You can permanently color your hair without worrying about it like you would if your hair was relaxed. I know that a lot of women are caught up in the “I have to use all natural products for everything.” Please don’t get caught up in the hype; hair is hair. You find out the strength of your hair and proceed from there. If you want to color your hair go ahead and do it right, if you want to relax your hair go ahead and do it right with the right PROFESSIONAL.

***Relaxed or Natural start looking at the ingredients of the product (google-> no wikipedia)  and look at who is featured on the advertisements of the product. If they don't look like you research the company and see if it is a product geared toward your texture of hair chances are it may not be.****

“I am empowered, my mind is changed, I am no longer afraid to be Leia’ ”

This is my story:

   

  I haven’t always loved the beauty of natural hair. I must admit, I was one of those “My hair is too long and I don’t want to look crazy” kind of girls addicted to the relaxer. I used to talk to this guy that wore his hair in twists and he just looked so sexy and I always wanted to try them on my hair but since I wasn’t natural I couldn’t. Prior to my 21^st birthday I made the decision to cut my hair into a Halle Barry pixie style. After the cut, I started to hear about the potential health effects of relaxers and decided that if I was going to go natural now was the time; I was NOT going to do the big chop when my hair was to my shoulders! I loved my health more than the sleek look. At this point my hair was chopped off and the transition was easy. I wore braids until it was long enough to cut off the relaxed part and rock my afro. I received many compliments from men, women and most surprisingly Caucasian strangers. It was a great feeling and I was happy to be natural and wear the twists I had been dying to try out.

     I’ve been very lucky to not have had any traumatic experiences going natural. However, I have received the occasional odd look followed with the “I will never go around nappy headed” comment from the chemically influenced. This may bother others, but after all of my mother’s “loving” criticisms of my hair anything anyone else has to say just rolls off my back.

     I think the best part of being natural is my personal growth experience. Being natural truly gives you perspective on what makes you beautiful and while going through that short/in-between stage you realize it’s not your hair that makes you beautiful. I finally started to understand what people meant when they said they were free. Free to walk out the door without checking my hair 50 times in the mirror, free to leave the house without a comb, free to walk around without make-up or other cosmetics that you think you have to have, or just free to be who you are and ok/not really caring about people who can’t or won’t except you for any reason; it’s a great feeling. I gained a confidence about myself that people see and respect and tell me they wish they had.

     The only negatives are that I can’t get my hair wet(so many people think once your natural you can go out in the rain->NOT TRUE) and in the summer, if it’s too hot, I can’t wear my hair straight because it willswell up from sweating and I will look like a fluffy troll doll.

     The biggest factor that keeps me natural is the versatility. When I was relaxed, I mainly wore curls or a flat wrap, but with natural hair I twist my hair one week, untwist it for a curly look the next week, and have a looser curl the third week. I just created three different looks in a fraction of the time it takes to create three different styles for relaxed hair each week. I also love that in the morning I can simply apply some oil to my hair, play with it a little bit and be out the door in minutes. I can straighten my hair with a flat iron, I can wear ponytails, I can wear styles galore, the possibilities are endless!

     People used to tell me that once I was natural I had a whole new community of sista's that were embracing of the natural beauty and more open than those that were relaxed. I didn't believe it, but it's true. When I see another woman who is natural I speak and say hey girl I love your fro' or sometimes they beat me no matter how my hair is looking and say I love your natural hair but I am always greeted with a smile! Now let's go to the relaxed girls, hey girl I love your hair-> sometimes it was like they just knew they were the stuff and did a brief thanks with a swish of their locks or some didn't even speak at all. Not to say that all women with relaxers are like this. I just started noticing who smiled back and who was more open to uplifting someone even if they didn't recieve a compliment back and it was more natural women than relaxed. I think it's because going through your natural journey you learn to respect and appreciate others a little more. This is just my own observation**

I canhumbly and with confidence say that I am beautiful. Not because of cosmetic enhancements but because of my beauty that radiates from within and can’t be mimicked or reproduced by the stroke of a makeup brush. 

**Tell me what your journey has been. What are the positive and negatives you’ve experienced?**

Below are some of the styles I wear regularly while natural:

Going Natural What Do I do??????

“Today there are many women who do not respect, appreciate, or understand their own hair in its natural state.” (Lisa Akbari) It’s because they do not understand how to style, control and manage their true texture.

Sorry I haven’t posted in a while been doing more research for you all!

Many women have decided to go natural for health, beauty, or other personal reasons and are lost as to what to do during the transition period.

What you hair is experiencing:

As your hair starts to grow you will start to notice (if your hair is relaxed) where your natural curl pattern and your relaxed hair meet. This is where your focus should be.  The line where the hair meets each other, old and new, is called the line of demarcation or difference.  This is where the hair is the weakest and needs to be taken care of with caution. If you’ve noticed that you’ve experienced shedding it’s because at this line the weight of the relaxed hair is too strong for the natural hair to hold and it snaps and breaks off.

What to do:

CONDITIONING AND MOISTURIZING are key factors in transitioning your hair.  Conditioning and moisturizing keeps your hair healthy and the elasticity strong (how far it can stretch without breaking) within the strand.

Rule of Thumb: If your hair feels dry apply moisturizer, if your hair looks dry apply oil, if it looks and feels both add both. Apply moisturizer then oil to seal and add shine. If your scalp is dry apply oil.

What styles can I wear?:

There are many styles that I recommend.

If your hair is strong enough you can get a sew-in until all your relaxed hair is cut off. I don’t always recommend because it can be hard to get moisture to the hair underneath causing dryness. Also sometimes the braids could be too tight causing to much strain on areas like the edges causing breakage. You might as well have cut it off. 

Other styles: crimps, twist set or braid set, micro-braids, kinky twists, rod set or THE BIG CHOP!

If you don’t plan on wearing your hair in an afro or twisted I suggest a weekly shampoo, condition, and flat iron straight. Your hair can withstand being straight and all one texture and the conditioning and thermal protection will allow you to maintain health.  The heat from the blow dryer and iron will rearrange your curl pattern by loosening it. The loosening of your curl would leave your afro or twists straight on the ends which is why I don’t recommend it if you plan on wearing these styles.

Why does natural hair get so dry?:

Your scalp secretes oil called sebum. When the hair is combed or brushed the oils are distributed throughout the hair strand in a straightened state. When your hair is natural the strands are in a spiral state not allowing the oil to wind down the strand like it could if it was straight. You also do not brush and comb your hair to distribute the oils. This is why you must condition, moisturize and put oil on your hair.

How did I grow my hair out?:

I used to have really long hair, and then one day I cut it into a bob!  The next year I cut it into a Halle Berry cut. From there I braided it in micro braids for the next 5 months. By then I was able to cut off the rest of the relaxer and wear a little afro.

Next Blog- My transition in whole!

*** Remember: Heating tools for daily use~ the first day you burn away maintenance products, the next day you burn hair!***

Lock vs. Dreadlock- "Hairlocking" The basics you need to know

Learn to work with your hair not against it!

“Dreadlock/Dread: A misnomer for locks, carried over from two traditions. Firstly is the Rastafarian way of life, which refers to the uncut, unmanicured locks as dreadlocks because of the fear they instilled in the white man. Secondly, the Eurocentric tradition of England, referred to locked hair as dreadful as they have historically slandered and disempowered any cultural feature that is not theirs. Today Africans perpetuate this slander by referring to their locks as “dreds.” The term Lock is more appropriate. Nakhena Evans- "Hairlocking Everything You Need to Know"

Cultivated vs. Non-cultivated

Locks are considered cultivated locks because they have received some sort of maintenance. A non-cultivated or dread lock is when the hair has not been maintained at all; hair has matted and intertwined itself without being twisted or cared for.

Stages to hairlocking

1. Pre-lock or baby locks-the initial lock. It can be palm rolled or comb twisted (most preferred methods) or two-strand twisted.  You should stay with the same person who begins them as each person will use a different method which could delay the locking process. This stage can last anywhere from 3 months to a year depending on the texture of hair.
1. Tightly Coiled Hair 3-6 months. (looks like a 3)
2. Coiled Hair 6-9 months. (looks like S)
3. Wavy Hair 9-12 months. (usually Caucasian/biracial hair types)
2. Budding or teenager- the hair begins to lock. The lock is no longer thin; it becomes enlarged about 3 quarters down the lock and is rebellious like a teenager. The hair is starting to matt.
3. Shooting or adult locks- the entire lock begins to interlock and matt. The hair is in this stage anywhere from 1-2 years.
4. Contracting phase or elder locks- These locks are now a full network of interlocked spirals of strands. Locks are consistent, tight and solid.
5. Aging- Now you have gotten to year 5, locks are established. After a while, the hair may become thin- trimming is suggested and healthy maintenance will reduce the thinning.

Locks require patience and time. They are not like braids and can be done in several hours. It takes months to years to fully develop locks and have them done the right way. Don’t use brown gel or beeswax. Brown gel tends to dry the hair and beeswax is very hard to break down and if the right shampoo isn’t used it will remain locked in the hair which is not good. These types of products give the appearance of a healthy lock but on the inside of the lock dirt and debris will be retained making the locking process longer and adding more work.

The oil that is most like the natural oil your scalp secretes is Jojoba oil. Sunflower, olive or peanut oil can be supplemented for jojoba oil. You will want to use these oils after shampooing and conditioning to put what moisture that has been taken out back by shampoo back into the hair and scalp.  Aloe Vera gel mixed with oil is a good locking agent that is water soluble.

***Eat right and educate yourself about your hair-> what is going into and on your scalp will get absorbed into your blood. You want to make sure it’s able to help not potentially harm you.***

What goes in must come out!

In being a better cosmetologist, I have decided to take a more wholistic approach to servicing my clients. I want to be able to help them identify problems going on internally that I can identify externally. As a nail technician I can tell when a person’s body is lacking water and moisture because their cuticles crack and split, hangnails appear, and their nails start to peel and the polish doesn’t hold as long. As a cosmetologist I need to see what the skin, scalp, and hair strands tell me.  Your skin, hair and nails will tell you what you are lacking or may have too much of in your system. I’m no expert but I have been educating myself more in this area so the following is just information that I have gathered that I thought may be useful to some of you.

Alopecia:  Is balding and could be directly related to problems with the liver. The liver filters organic and inorganic matter and results in the hormonal balance of the body. When the liver is experiencing any kind of problem it throws off the balance of the body affecting the hormonal balance of the papilla which is where the hair growth occurs.  Stress is also a major internal factor. This doesn’t mean you’re dying it just means that at your next doctor appointment mention the fact that you’ve been experiencing some balding and you would like to have your liver checked.

      Pills that can affect this are: penicillin, sleeping pills, birth control, blood pressure and excessive aspirin.

External Factors: Tight braids, rubber band ponytails, excessive rubbing in a particular area (scarves, coat collars, head wraps wrapped to tight)

Dry scalp: Internally can mean you are not getting enough water or you have a deficiency of something. Zinc and vitamin A work together and a deficiency can lead to dry hair and oily skin. A high level of copper can have an adverse effect and lead to dry hair and hair loss. Externally you are using a product that is drying (shampoo, spray’s, conditioner not good for your hair type, etc.)

***Too much zinc interferes with iron absorption   

Healthy foods to keep in your diet, don’t overcook your veggies because it takes out their nutrients the longer they cook:

Kale, Spinach

Broccoli, Nuts

Fruit, Whole grain

Eggs, Cheese

Liver, Rice

Milk, Brewer’s yeast

Carrots, Apricots

Fish liver oil, Tofu

Fish, Beans

Lentils, Kelp

Garlic, Avocados

Yogurt, Yams

Figs, Dates

Potatoes, Tuna and Mushrooms.

All of these foods contain Vitamin A, C, and E, Biotin, Inositol, Niacin, Vitamin B5, B12 and B6, Calcium, Chromium, Copper, Iodine, Iron, Magnesium, Manganese, Potassium, Selenium, Silica, Sulfur and Zinc. I am informing you of this because you may be taking vitamins or daily supplements and want to check with your doctor to make sure you are taking the right amount daily in conjunction with your daily intake of certain foods and not overdosing without realizing it.

***Just some tid bits of information to get you involved in keeping “you” beautiful inside and out!

I look good now! But how do I wake up looking good to?

What do I use to cover my head?

We all go to the salon and get real cute, but then we go home and go to sleep…. Well the next morning is not the same look you had last night, what happened? Here are a few head coverings that may help you keep your style a little longer and your hair a little healthier.

Cotton should not be in your sleeping regimen at all!! Cotton absorbs moisture, hence it sucks out the moisture in your hair causing dryness to occur. You want to use a satin, silk or nylon.

• A silk or satin pillow case are the best pillowcases for your hair.
• A silk or satin head covering/bonnet should be used for curls and natural styles that you do not want "smushed".  Extra tip for curls- wrap the curls around your finger, like a pin curl, and pin with a bobby pin, put on a bonnet and sleep away to preserve your curls.
• A nylon (stocking cap) should be used for loc’s. They help to keep the frizz at a minimum and allow the scalp to breathe at night.
• A strip head wrap should be used for short styles. It wraps around the head vertically and only covers the sides, back and front, the top is left out.  This is when the pillowcase comes into action.
• Some blessed heads will be able to sleep with no head covering but I still recommend a satin or silk pillowcase to keep moisture in the hair.

Hair tip: If you are wearing a wrap or short hair style you can spray on Design Essentials "Reflections Shine Spray" either before you wrap or right after you take off your head covering then comb into style or run through with your fingers.

Get healthy with Conditioner!

“It is better to prevent than to cure!"

There was a process for damaging and a process for healing---> Healthy results take time”

Conditioning serves the purpose of smoothing raised cuticles, reducing or even minimizing the static fly-away look, detangling, strengthening, adding luster and helping to keep split ends at bay. Some conditioning agents such as panthenol, collagen, silk protein and amino acids are protein extracts that help to preserve the natural structure of your hair. Protein products aid in rebuilding and maintaining the structure of the hair by replacing essential proteins that have been stripped by styling products and tools or implements.

Types of Conditioners:

1. “Deep penetrating” conditioners: Should be used with heat or a steamer for at least 10 minutes, 15-20 if hair is really damaged. They penetrate to the cortex and supply the nutrients that the strand is lacking and fill in gaps where the cuticle scales may need assistance.
2. Protein treatments:
1. Light protein treatments: Tend to have the word “re-constructor” in it and only require a few minutes under the dryer. They can be used daily (read manufacturer directions) because some are supposed to be left in and not rinsed out.
2. Heavy protein treatments: Mimic the natural strand but do not recreate it allowing your hair to stay on your head a little bit longer. (They mimic it because they have to be re-done every so often) They must be used with heat and generally have to get hard. These should only be done every 6-8 weeks. Your hair doesn’t have to be in bad shape to use these but if you condition your hair regularly and are practicing healthy maintenance on your hair I don’t feel it necessary to do them. (Always follow with a deep, rich conditioner 5-10 min.)
3. Acid Rinse: These neutralize or restore the ph balance to the hair and scalp.  They remove soap residue from locs and braids, build up from heavy shampoos, and seal in nutrients by closing the cuticle layer. Typically done on natural and loc’d hair.
4. Leave-in: Simply put-à an extra safe guard for the hair to prevent weathering of the strand. Let them be your best friend!! The best ones are water soluble.

How do you know how the conditioner will react on your hair? You don’t, but you can find out if it will penetrate or lay on the hair strand and cause build up. Take the conditioner and rub it on the back of your hand, if it absorbs into your skin you are ok to try it. If it doesn’t, than that’s the buildup that will keep your hair from receiving the nutrients it needs. The same goes for oils and moisturizers, they should absorb not leave a greasy film.

Product Suggestions:

1. Design essentials- stimulations (use on really dry hair) or express (can be combed through and rinsed out for healthy hair) conditioner, HCO leave-in conditioner
2. Earth Science Hair treatment conditioner- I just started using this, it’s a great detangler for my hair and only needs 2 mins to do it’s majic. I leave it on longer though just because:).  (purchase from evitamins.com)
3. Triple Silk- great deep conditioner for color treated, dry, or damaged hair
4. Miss Jessie’s Rapid Recovery
5. Mizani- true textures line (it's yellow)
6. At home acid rinse-
1. 2 whole lemons, juiced and strained

1 qt distilled water

2-3 drops of lemon oil or lemon grass oil

Mix together and run through hair. Use after shampooing and conditioning. This rinse closes the cuticle so do no rinse out. There are a bunch of rinses that you can try. The lemon rinse acts as an astringent, stimulates the scalp, and dissolves sebum buildup.

****Hair tip- Add a tsp. of your favorite oil (mine is almond use olive if you need strengthening) to your conditioner. If you don't have a dryer, put on conditioner and wrap with a "hot" moist (not to wet) towel then cover with plastic cap.****