Sunday, December 12, 2010

Let's Talk Tools!

“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”
“It’s not always about how often you do something; it’s about what happens when you do it.”- Let’s talk about the tools you are using on your hair.
Combs- Make sure you are never using combs that are broken. The jagged edges tear along the cuticle layer and cause breaks and tears that lead to other damaging effects of the strand.
·         Wide tooth- Should always be used on wet hair. When evenly distributing product (conditioner, setting lotion, etc.) you should use a wide tooth comb to help detangle and alleviate the amount of stress put on the hair.
·         Rattail- Should be used to mold, section and style the hair
Brushes- The main goal of the brush is to distribute your natural hair oils and remove dirt and debris that has settled in your hair and on your scalp.
·         Flat paddle- This brush has little balls on the bristles that allow your scalp to receive a nice stimulating massage that increases blood flow to promote healthy growth. It also distributes the natural oils produced by your scalp evenly through your hair.
·         Bristle brush- This brush will tear the hair. But this brush is also recommended for women who have long, thick hair. (Personal preference will have to be applied here)
·         Denman brush- Stimulates the scalp the same way a flat paddle brush does. People with thick hair that want a straight sleek look would use this brush when blow-drying the hair. You can also create flips with this brush and the blow dryer.
Blow dryer- Ceramic, Ionic, etc what do they all mean?????
·         Ceramic – Used for even distribution of heat, the far infrared rays help to lock in color and moisture, smooth cuticles, and dry the hair faster from the inside out. It always distributes negative ions to help lay the cuticle down. It can be used on all hair types.
·         Ionic- These dryers produce additional negative ions that help reduce frizz caused by static electricity. In theory, a conventional dryer pushes out the positive ions that raise the cuticle causing frizzy, dry, dull looking hair. The wet hair is a positive ion, the ionic dryer produces negative ions and they come together to lay the cuticle down and seal in moisture producing a shiny more healthy look. They also use less heat causing less damage to the hair. Best for people with frizzy hair. Ceramic materials are usually ionic which means in some dryers you will get the benefits of an ionic dryer even if it doesn’t say so.  (This is another personal preference because many users found no difference between ceramic and ionic)
·         Tourmaline- Have the same benefits of ionic dryers. They are made with tourmaline, which is a precious stone, because it is the best ionic and infrared generator for dryers.
Thermal Protector:
They are usually sprays or liquids that you place on the hair shaft to protect during thermal styling services. Products with silicone act like a make-up foundation; they merely cover and give the appearance of a healthy strand. I personally like Design essentials H2O mixed with Sabino Moisture Block. You always want to have a thermal protector when using a blow dryer, curling iron and if you want to go a step further hooded dryer as well.
Flat Irons:
The same technology that is used in the dryers is applied to the flat irons. An ionic ceramic flat iron is said to be the best because it neutralizes the positive ions and adds the negative ions needed to produce a smooth silky strand. In my experience, I only use a Titanium iron on my Caucasian clients because the “plates” have burned my African American client’s hair. (Titanium has the same benefits of ionic tools.) I prefer ceramic on African American hair. When straightening natural hair, the most important part is to blow it dry until it shines on its own.  There is much talk about how high of a temperature you should use on your hair. I have found that with a really good blow dry I don’t have to use over 400 degrees unless they have extremely coarse hair in which I go up to 430 degrees.
***Hair Tip: You get what you pay for! Some products like flat irons and blow dryers might cost a little more but the durability, longevity, and health to your hair because of the parts it’s made of, will be better in the long run. You should never expect overnight results.

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