What goes in must come out!

In being a better cosmetologist, I have decided to take a more wholistic approach to servicing my clients. I want to be able to help them identify problems going on internally that I can identify externally. As a nail technician I can tell when a person’s body is lacking water and moisture because their cuticles crack and split, hangnails appear, and their nails start to peel and the polish doesn’t hold as long. As a cosmetologist I need to see what the skin, scalp, and hair strands tell me.  Your skin, hair and nails will tell you what you are lacking or may have too much of in your system. I’m no expert but I have been educating myself more in this area so the following is just information that I have gathered that I thought may be useful to some of you.

Alopecia:  Is balding and could be directly related to problems with the liver. The liver filters organic and inorganic matter and results in the hormonal balance of the body. When the liver is experiencing any kind of problem it throws off the balance of the body affecting the hormonal balance of the papilla which is where the hair growth occurs.  Stress is also a major internal factor. This doesn’t mean you’re dying it just means that at your next doctor appointment mention the fact that you’ve been experiencing some balding and you would like to have your liver checked.

      Pills that can affect this are: penicillin, sleeping pills, birth control, blood pressure and excessive aspirin.

External Factors: Tight braids, rubber band ponytails, excessive rubbing in a particular area (scarves, coat collars, head wraps wrapped to tight)

Dry scalp: Internally can mean you are not getting enough water or you have a deficiency of something. Zinc and vitamin A work together and a deficiency can lead to dry hair and oily skin. A high level of copper can have an adverse effect and lead to dry hair and hair loss. Externally you are using a product that is drying (shampoo, spray’s, conditioner not good for your hair type, etc.)

***Too much zinc interferes with iron absorption   

Healthy foods to keep in your diet, don’t overcook your veggies because it takes out their nutrients the longer they cook:

Kale, Spinach

Broccoli, Nuts

Fruit, Whole grain

Eggs, Cheese

Liver, Rice

Milk, Brewer’s yeast

Carrots, Apricots

Fish liver oil, Tofu

Fish, Beans

Lentils, Kelp

Garlic, Avocados

Yogurt, Yams

Figs, Dates

Potatoes, Tuna and Mushrooms.

All of these foods contain Vitamin A, C, and E, Biotin, Inositol, Niacin, Vitamin B5, B12 and B6, Calcium, Chromium, Copper, Iodine, Iron, Magnesium, Manganese, Potassium, Selenium, Silica, Sulfur and Zinc. I am informing you of this because you may be taking vitamins or daily supplements and want to check with your doctor to make sure you are taking the right amount daily in conjunction with your daily intake of certain foods and not overdosing without realizing it.

***Just some tid bits of information to get you involved in keeping “you” beautiful inside and out!

I look good now! But how do I wake up looking good to?

What do I use to cover my head?

We all go to the salon and get real cute, but then we go home and go to sleep…. Well the next morning is not the same look you had last night, what happened? Here are a few head coverings that may help you keep your style a little longer and your hair a little healthier.

Cotton should not be in your sleeping regimen at all!! Cotton absorbs moisture, hence it sucks out the moisture in your hair causing dryness to occur. You want to use a satin, silk or nylon.

• A silk or satin pillow case are the best pillowcases for your hair.
• A silk or satin head covering/bonnet should be used for curls and natural styles that you do not want "smushed".  Extra tip for curls- wrap the curls around your finger, like a pin curl, and pin with a bobby pin, put on a bonnet and sleep away to preserve your curls.
• A nylon (stocking cap) should be used for loc’s. They help to keep the frizz at a minimum and allow the scalp to breathe at night.
• A strip head wrap should be used for short styles. It wraps around the head vertically and only covers the sides, back and front, the top is left out.  This is when the pillowcase comes into action.
• Some blessed heads will be able to sleep with no head covering but I still recommend a satin or silk pillowcase to keep moisture in the hair.

Hair tip: If you are wearing a wrap or short hair style you can spray on Design Essentials "Reflections Shine Spray" either before you wrap or right after you take off your head covering then comb into style or run through with your fingers.

Get healthy with Conditioner!

“It is better to prevent than to cure!"

There was a process for damaging and a process for healing---> Healthy results take time”

Conditioning serves the purpose of smoothing raised cuticles, reducing or even minimizing the static fly-away look, detangling, strengthening, adding luster and helping to keep split ends at bay. Some conditioning agents such as panthenol, collagen, silk protein and amino acids are protein extracts that help to preserve the natural structure of your hair. Protein products aid in rebuilding and maintaining the structure of the hair by replacing essential proteins that have been stripped by styling products and tools or implements.

Types of Conditioners:

1. “Deep penetrating” conditioners: Should be used with heat or a steamer for at least 10 minutes, 15-20 if hair is really damaged. They penetrate to the cortex and supply the nutrients that the strand is lacking and fill in gaps where the cuticle scales may need assistance.
2. Protein treatments:
1. Light protein treatments: Tend to have the word “re-constructor” in it and only require a few minutes under the dryer. They can be used daily (read manufacturer directions) because some are supposed to be left in and not rinsed out.
2. Heavy protein treatments: Mimic the natural strand but do not recreate it allowing your hair to stay on your head a little bit longer. (They mimic it because they have to be re-done every so often) They must be used with heat and generally have to get hard. These should only be done every 6-8 weeks. Your hair doesn’t have to be in bad shape to use these but if you condition your hair regularly and are practicing healthy maintenance on your hair I don’t feel it necessary to do them. (Always follow with a deep, rich conditioner 5-10 min.)
3. Acid Rinse: These neutralize or restore the ph balance to the hair and scalp.  They remove soap residue from locs and braids, build up from heavy shampoos, and seal in nutrients by closing the cuticle layer. Typically done on natural and loc’d hair.
4. Leave-in: Simply put-à an extra safe guard for the hair to prevent weathering of the strand. Let them be your best friend!! The best ones are water soluble.

How do you know how the conditioner will react on your hair? You don’t, but you can find out if it will penetrate or lay on the hair strand and cause build up. Take the conditioner and rub it on the back of your hand, if it absorbs into your skin you are ok to try it. If it doesn’t, than that’s the buildup that will keep your hair from receiving the nutrients it needs. The same goes for oils and moisturizers, they should absorb not leave a greasy film.

Product Suggestions:

1. Design essentials- stimulations (use on really dry hair) or express (can be combed through and rinsed out for healthy hair) conditioner, HCO leave-in conditioner
2. Earth Science Hair treatment conditioner- I just started using this, it’s a great detangler for my hair and only needs 2 mins to do it’s majic. I leave it on longer though just because:).  (purchase from evitamins.com)
3. Triple Silk- great deep conditioner for color treated, dry, or damaged hair
4. Miss Jessie’s Rapid Recovery
5. Mizani- true textures line (it's yellow)
6. At home acid rinse-
1. 2 whole lemons, juiced and strained

1 qt distilled water

2-3 drops of lemon oil or lemon grass oil

Mix together and run through hair. Use after shampooing and conditioning. This rinse closes the cuticle so do no rinse out. There are a bunch of rinses that you can try. The lemon rinse acts as an astringent, stimulates the scalp, and dissolves sebum buildup.

****Hair tip- Add a tsp. of your favorite oil (mine is almond use olive if you need strengthening) to your conditioner. If you don't have a dryer, put on conditioner and wrap with a "hot" moist (not to wet) towel then cover with plastic cap.****