Thursday, January 6, 2011

Get healthy with Conditioner!

“It is better to prevent than to cure!"
There was a process for damaging and a process for healing---> Healthy results take time”

Conditioning serves the purpose of smoothing raised cuticles, reducing or even minimizing the static fly-away look, detangling, strengthening, adding luster and helping to keep split ends at bay. Some conditioning agents such as panthenol, collagen, silk protein and amino acids are protein extracts that help to preserve the natural structure of your hair. Protein products aid in rebuilding and maintaining the structure of the hair by replacing essential proteins that have been stripped by styling products and tools or implements.
Types of Conditioners:
  1. “Deep penetrating” conditioners: Should be used with heat or a steamer for at least 10 minutes, 15-20 if hair is really damaged. They penetrate to the cortex and supply the nutrients that the strand is lacking and fill in gaps where the cuticle scales may need assistance.
  2. Protein treatments:
    1. Light protein treatments: Tend to have the word “re-constructor” in it and only require a few minutes under the dryer. They can be used daily (read manufacturer directions) because some are supposed to be left in and not rinsed out.
    2. Heavy protein treatments: Mimic the natural strand but do not recreate it allowing your hair to stay on your head a little bit longer. (They mimic it because they have to be re-done every so often) They must be used with heat and generally have to get hard. These should only be done every 6-8 weeks. Your hair doesn’t have to be in bad shape to use these but if you condition your hair regularly and are practicing healthy maintenance on your hair I don’t feel it necessary to do them. (Always follow with a deep, rich conditioner 5-10 min.)
  3. Acid Rinse: These neutralize or restore the ph balance to the hair and scalp.  They remove soap residue from locs and braids, build up from heavy shampoos, and seal in nutrients by closing the cuticle layer. Typically done on natural and loc’d hair.
  4. Leave-in: Simply put-à an extra safe guard for the hair to prevent weathering of the strand. Let them be your best friend!! The best ones are water soluble.
How do you know how the conditioner will react on your hair? You don’t, but you can find out if it will penetrate or lay on the hair strand and cause build up. Take the conditioner and rub it on the back of your hand, if it absorbs into your skin you are ok to try it. If it doesn’t, than that’s the buildup that will keep your hair from receiving the nutrients it needs. The same goes for oils and moisturizers, they should absorb not leave a greasy film.
Product Suggestions:
  1. Design essentials- stimulations (use on really dry hair) or express (can be combed through and rinsed out for healthy hair) conditioner, HCO leave-in conditioner
  2. Earth Science Hair treatment conditioner- I just started using this, it’s a great detangler for my hair and only needs 2 mins to do it’s majic. I leave it on longer though just because:).  (purchase from evitamins.com)
  3. Triple Silk- great deep conditioner for color treated, dry, or damaged hair
  4. Miss Jessie’s Rapid Recovery
  5. Mizani- true textures line (it's yellow)
  6. At home acid rinse-
    1. 2 whole lemons, juiced and strained
1 qt distilled water
2-3 drops of lemon oil or lemon grass oil
Mix together and run through hair. Use after shampooing and conditioning. This rinse closes the cuticle so do no rinse out. There are a bunch of rinses that you can try. The lemon rinse acts as an astringent, stimulates the scalp, and dissolves sebum buildup.

****Hair tip- Add a tsp. of your favorite oil (mine is almond use olive if you need strengthening) to your conditioner. If you don't have a dryer, put on conditioner and wrap with a "hot" moist (not to wet) towel then cover with plastic cap.****

2 comments:

  1. Thank you for this post!! So many of us as stylist's do not understand the value of conditioner's. Not only that, if they knew the value, they would be able to earn much more income on their tickets. Great knowledge and you have done your home work!!! Hopefully, you are getting paid for this extra much needed service, each and everytime your clients services with you. I would just add, "if that's ok", Heavy Protein can be very damaging to the hair, if you do not back it up with a moisturizing cond. We alway need to bring our PH back down, close to a 5 point 5 or 5 point 6, to bring balance back to our cuticle hair. I'm really glad I got to meet you and I will read and post as much as possible. Take car until you hear from me again!! Nadine Branch -"Hair Doc"

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  2. Thanks for the info Nadine, feel free to share anytime! Glad you got a chance to look it over:)

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